I'm going to help building a Kit and it requires a Radio Shack #276-1000 triac. All I can find for Data on the part is this:

6-Amp Triac/Thyristor
(276-1000) Specifications Faxback Doc. # 37468

Current (Max): .................................................. ..... 6 A

Current (gt)(Max): .................................................. 50mA

Voltage (Max): .................................................. .... 400V

Voltage (gt)(Max): .................................................. 2.5V

Case Style: .................................................. ....... MU27

Pin-Out with pins facing you and reading left to right: ........ 1=Anode 1
2=Anode 2
3=Gate

I'm wondering if I can replace it with a 8 amp Thyristor? Here is the schematic. If so, what parts do you think will have to be added ?

Lightning Project for Halloween

VIVAnews -Shinyoku, one of the producers of the lights in the country, along with a team of researchers from the Institute for Energy Studies of the University of Indonesia (LPE UI) do research. They test the resilience of light products in circulation in the market against disconnection-energy-efficient lighting (LHE).

As known, currently a number of manufacturers of light present their products on the market. The number of the brand it provides convenience for masyarakan in determining the options to meet their needs.

But filmgoers, many brands of lamps from China, by relying on cheap prices are also present. This makes the community had difficulty getting the light quality.

From the research conducted by LPE UI, note that the energy-saving Lamps (LHE) from Shinyoku was able to survive the termination of the lighting energy-saving Lamps in compare (LHE) is better compared with some other brands.

"This is a testament to the commitment of the Shinyoku in the featured products of energy saving Lamps (LHE) quality in the midst of society," said Rickyawan Hartono, Marketing Director of Shinyoku, in his statement, may 18, 2011.

The results of such research be dealt Shinyoku in energy-saving Lamp presents (LHE) best in society.

"In the end, every step is in the doing by Shinyoku is in order to satisfy consumers and bring Shinyoku into the energy-saving Lamp brands at any time to present a quality product in the community," said Rickyawan.

• VIVAnews

Peliculas Online

Light Bulb Energy Saving Certifications To Qualify Local UI

Sensor cahaya dengan LED sebuah phototransistor LTR 4206E, sebuah transistor 2N3904, dan sebuah resistor 1 k. LED warna merah, menyilaukan terang seperti 60 lilin


 
Berikut adalah masalah yang sederhana: "Bagaimana Anda membuat menghidupkan LED pada saat hari gelap?" Anda mungkin menyebutnya "masalah lampu malam," tapi sama seperti pertanyaan muncul dalam banyak situasi akrab - lampu darurat, lampu jalan, lampu latar konyol keyboard komputer, dan daftar terus.

Solusi? Banyak. Dengan menggunakan rangkaian dengan photoresistor CdS , kadang-kadang disebut fotosel atau LDR, untuk "resistor bergantung pada cahaya." Photoresistors dapat diandalkan dan biaya sekitar 1000 masing-masing, tetapi akan pergi karena mengandung kadmium, logam berat beracun yang penggunaannya semakin diatur. Ada solusi lain juga. Cari di sini untuk beberapa-amp berbasis sirkuit photodetektor op dengan output LED, dan memeriksa beberapa trik yang digunakan dalam dirancang dengan baik lampu taman surya, yang meliputi permata seperti menggunakan sel surya itu sendiri sebagai sensor. (Our own solar circuit collection is here .) (Koleksi surya sirkuit kami sendiri di sini .)
Pada artikel ini kita menunjukkan bagaimana untuk membangun sangat sederhana - bahkan mungkin paling sederhana - rangkaian LED aktif waktu gelap. Untuk LED dan baterai kita menambahkan hanya tiga komponen, dengan biaya kurang dari lima ribu sama sekali (dan jauh lebih sedikit jika Anda membeli dalam jumlah besar). Anda bisa membangun dalam waktu kurang dari lima menit atau kurang (jauh lebih sedikit dengan praktek).
Apa yang dapat Anda lakukan dengan seperti rangkaian LED cahaya yang dikontrol murah? Hampir semua hal benar. Namun, satu aplikasi menyenangkan adalah membuat LED yang mengubah diri mereka sendiri di siang hari untuk menghemat daya. biasanya dapat bertahan hingga dua minggu. Menambahkan tombol lampu tingkat seperti ini dapat secara signifikan memperpanjang masa hidup mereka.
Berikut adalah komponen kami: Di atas: koin sel lithium CR2032 (3 V) Pada bagian bawah (LR): LED, sebuah phototransistor LTR-4206E, sebuah transistor 2N3904, dan sebuah resistor 1 k. LED ini adalah merah, menyilaukan terang seperti 60 lilin, dalam paket 10 mm. terlihat selama sekitar dua puluh meter di ruangan terang. Seperti yang telah disebutkan, yang terakhir tiga biaya sekitar 10 ribu semua, dan jauh lebih sedikit dalam jumlah besar. HAHAHAHAHAHHA
The LTR-4206E adalah sebuah phototransistor dalam ukuran 3mm. Terlihat blok paket cahaya hitam, sehingga hanya sensitif terhadap cahaya inframerah - itu melihat sinar matahari dan lampu pijar, tetapi tidak fluorescent atau (paling) lampu debit - itu benar-benar akan datang pada malam hari.

Titik awal kami adalah rangkaian LED yang paling sederhana: bahwa dari LED dapat listrik langsung dari sel koin lithium 3V. Dari sini, kita menambahkan pada phototransistor, yang sensitip cahaya, dan kita menggunakan outputnya untuk mengendalikan transistor, yang mengubah LED.
Diagram sirkuit terlihat seperti ini, silahkan abaikan tulisan tangan berantakan. ;) ;)
Ketika cahaya jatuh pada phototransistor, ia mulai untuk melakukan sampai sekitar 1,5 mA, yang menarik turun tegangan di sisi bawah resistor dengan 1,5 V, transistor mati dan mematikan LED. Ketika gelap, transistor mampu melakukan sekitar 15 mA melalui LED. Jadi, sirkuit menggunakan hanya sekitar 1 / 10 sebanyak sekarang sedangkan LED dimatikan. Satu hal yang perlu diperhatikan tentang rangkaian ini: Kami menggunakan LED merah. Itu karena tegangan transistor memungkinkan kurang dari 3V di LED.

Sensor cahaya gelap dengan sirkuit LED Sederhana dan Murah

Almost all inexpensive commercial LED flashlights use a 4.5 V power supply—three AA or AAA batteries—because white LEDs require 3.3 to 3.5 V to fully turn on. Thus, there is a voltage gap between LEDs and traditional 3 V incandescent-flashlight bulbs. The voltage difference makes for a difficult—but not impossible—transition from the old flashlight to an LED flashlight. The simple circuit in Figure 1 solves this problem.

The circuit is just a typical voltage booster comprising six components that you can mount on a small PCB (printed-circuit board) measuring less than 1 in 2. Component selection and their values are, however, important. IC1, an Atmel ATtiny13 microcontroller, works as a charge pump for boost control. Its internal oscillator frequency is 1.2 MHz at 3.5 V, and it can operate with voltages as low as 1.8 V with low power consumption. The ATtiny13 has a small, eight-pin footprint.
Q1 is a low-saturation-voltage ZTX618 NPN transistor that can handle more than 3 A of collector current. D1 is a Schottky diode with low forward-voltage drop to achieve high efficiency. When you apply the 3 V supply-voltage power to IC1, IC1 outputs a high pulse that turns on Q1. Its collector is effectively grounded. Inductor L1 charges linearly from 0A to some peak current until IC1 outputs a logic low, and Q1 then turns off (Figure 2). This circuit works only when the inductor is not saturated, so choosing the right inductor is important. At that moment, the established magnetic field in L1 collapses, causing a reverse induced voltage that makes D1 conduct. The energy in L1 transfers to C2, which stores the energy until it is sufficient to light up the LEDs. The relationship between the supply voltage (VIN), the inductor (L), its peak current (IPK), and the microcontroller’s on time (TON) is VIN=L×IPK/TON.

For a supply voltage of 3 V, you should select an inductor with a nominal value of 10 µH and a saturation current larger than 1.5 A. You can calculate the microcontroller’s on time as 5 µsec. Listing 1 uses this value for the charge pump’s on time. The program in Listing 1 is so simple that it takes only 22 bytes of the 1-kbyte program memory. The charge-pump-control function is easy to understand. The instruction Sbi portb, 2 tells the microcontroller to output a logic high to turn on the charge pump. Because the microcontroller works at 1.2 MHz by its internal oscillator, each NOP (nonoperation) takes one clock cycle, or 0.83 µsec, to execute, so the on time is 5 µsec. Similarly, Cbi portb, 2 tells the microcontroller to output a logic low that turns off the charge pump.
Measurement shows that the circuit works at a 100-kHz switching frequency and that the actual output is 17 V / 35 mA for five LEDs and 32 V / 20 mA for 10 LEDs. Unlike the usual voltage-booster circuit, this circuit needs no resistor, which wastes energy and generates useless heat, as a voltage divider or a sensor.

Five- to 10-LED Flashlight Circuit Runs at 3 V

I won't kid you - these two cards need some serious construction skills, and are both experimental (particularly the dialler), so are no beginners projects, but wait 'til you see the face of the first person you give one of these to! Don't try these designs unless you have successfully made a few electronic items before - they need good soldering skills, and ideally a way of making some printed circuit boards, although if you soldering skills are REALLY good, and you are making just a few, it is possible to make versions of both of these cards without circuit boards, and just "point to point" wiring - my prototypes were done like this.

Firstly the torch. This is the easier of the two. Although you could use some PVC cards to enclose a hand-wired version (keep reading on to see this technique used in the "dialler"), making copies is much easier with a proper PCB. A tutorial on how to make a PCB is beyond the scope of this article, but if you haven't tried it before, it is a really good technique to be able to do and opens up a countless variety of electronic projects. Here is an instructable on a simple toner transfer PCB - personally I find more repeatable and professional results with the photographic method - couldn't find an instructable for this one, but there is plenty of info on the web - I use a very cheap 500 W halogen light from the local hardware store to expose mine for a few minutes, and then develop, etch and tin. If there is enough demand, I might get some universal "torch" and "dialler" boards commercially made.

Anyway, assuming you can get a PCB made up, the file which I used is included below - this can be modified on a standard graphics package. If you can't read EPS files, then try the 300 dpi bitmapped version included below as well. You can of course use a specialised PCB package, but I wanted an unusual cursive font on mine, so just hand-drew the design on a graphics package. This allowed me to incorporate my name into the actual circuit board - the electric current actually goes though my name! If you want to produce a reasonable batch, you will probably want to tile your image over the page after you have made your changes.

Here you can see the parts - a PCB, coin cell (CR2032), a coin cell holder, a 3 mm LED (any colour should be fine), a PCB-mount switch, and a resistor. A complete parts list for both projects is available as a link below if you want to find where to source some of these components. The value of the resistor is usually around 68 ohm for most colour LEDs. It is a surface mount device, so is very small - the exact type you get isn't critical - I used a "1206" package as it is easier to solder, but 0805 or 0603 packages can be soldered on as well if you have good eyesight! If you are using a blue or white LED, they are meant to be too high-voltage to really use with a single coin cell, but if you use a bright one, you can just remove the resistor completely (short with a blob of solder or use a "0 ohm resistor") and the light, although not full intensity, should be quite bright (see the image of it turned on a couple of pages later). You want to get the highest intensity 3mm LED you can find - there are some great deals on ebay, which is usually the cheapest place to find these.

Business Card Parts List.pdf

Business Card Tech Notes.pdf
If you want more information on how both of these projects work technically, including how to properly choose resistor values, see the extra technical information sheet that I have posted below as well. I could make up a batch of 100 of these for under $1 each, including PCB -not bad for some extreme marketing, but you could probably even half this price if you were serious about making these in quantity and could do without the battery holder (see the notes in the parts list about welding batteries).

I'm afraid a complete tutorial on soldering isn't within the scope of this instructable either, but the torch is quite easy to solder. I put a blob of solder on the iron, and then whilst holding one end of the component down with my finger or some tweezers, I apply this blob to one end of the component. Then I solder the other end, and finally go back to the first end and solder it again. All components can be put either way around except for the LED - for this one the longer lead is the positive (check before you shorten it!), and should be at the bottom of the PCB in this image (next to the resistor). The negative end can also usually be told by looking for a flat mark on one side of the LED's plastic cover.

Insert the battery with the positive side up, and press the button, and you should have a functioning key ring light! As I mentioned, this design is an experimental prototype only - if I produced these on mass, I would probably change a few things. Firstly, I would make the board smaller still (for cost), and put the name/contact details on the reverse of the board. I might also change the CR2032 cell to a CR2016 as this is thinner, and cut a hole in the board to mount it inline. This would make the whole thing very thin indeed. I might even encapsulate the board in clear heat shrink tubing or the like, to stop it shorting out on keys whilst in the pocket.

Do you think that you can handle an even more advanced design? If so, read on to see how the "autodialing card" works ...

The Torch

Introduction
This circuit is a dimmable white LED lamp array with 18 LEDs. The lamp brightness is regulated as long as the input voltage is above 10.5V. A low-dropout analog voltage regulator is used for a simple and relatively efficient design. The lamp produces enough light to use as a a reading lamp or a small work lamp.

Specifications

• Power Requirements:
  • Input Voltage: 10.5-16V DC
  • Input Current: 11-150mA at 12VDC

Theory
The 12V DC input voltage is routed through the 1A fuse and the on/off switch. The 1N4001 diode acts as a crowbar device. If reverse polarity is applied, the fuse will blow and the rest of the circuitry will be protected. Power is sent to the LM2941CT voltage regulator IC. The regulator is wired to produce a voltage range from 5.5V (dim) to 8.3V (bright).
The 4.7K resistor across the 1K brightness adjustment potentiometer produces a non-linear brightness adjustment to compensate for the eye's logarithmic brightness perception response. The LEDs are organized in six series groups of three with a 24 ohm current limiting resistor on each group. This arrangement limits the maximum current through each LED group to around 20mA.
Use
Connect the DC input terminals to a 12V source, such as a 12V lead acid battery. Be sure to observe the correct polarity. Turn the power switch on and adjust the brightness adjustment for the desired brightness.
Parts

• 1X LM2941CT low-dropout voltage regulator
• 1X 1A DC rated fuse
• 1X DC switch
• 1X 1N4001 diode
• 2X 1K 1/4W resistors
• 2X 4.7K 1/4W resistors
• 6X 24 ohm 1/4W resistors
• 1X 1K linear potentiometer
• 18X 5mm white LEDs, 20mA max
• 1X 22uF 16V electrolytic capacitor
• 1X 100nF 25V monoblock capacitor

18 LED dimmable LED lamp

Here is a white-LED-based emergency light that offers the following advantages:

1. It is highly bright due to the use of white LEDs.
2. The light turns on automatically when mains supply fails, and turns off when mains power resumes.
3. It has its own battery charger. When the battery is fully charged, charging stops automatically.

The circuit comprises two sections: charger power supply and LED driver.The charger power supply section is built around 3-terminal adjustable regulator (IC1) LM317, while the LED driver section is built around transistor BD140 (T2). In the charger power supply section, input AC mains is stepped down by transformer to deliver 9 V, 500 mA to the bridge rectifier, which comprises diodes (IN4007 x 4). Filter capacitor (25 v / 1000 uf)eliminates ripples. Unregulated DC voltage is fed to input pin 3 of IC1 and provides charging current through diode IN4007 (D5) and limiting resistor (16 ohm) R16. By adjusting preset 2.2 K (VR1), the output voltage can be adjusted to deliver the required charging current. When the battery gets charged to 6.8V, zener diode conducts and charging current from regulator (IC1) finds a path through transistor BC547(T1) to ground and it stops charging of the battery. The LED driver section uses a total of twelve 10mm white LEDs. All the LEDs are connected in parallel with a 100-ohm resistor in series with each. The common-anode junction of all the twelve LEDs is connected to the collector of pnp transistor T2 and the emitter of transistor T2 is directly connected to the positive terminal of 6 V battery. The unregulated DC voltage, produced at the cathode junction of Bridge(Diodes), is fed to the base of transistor T2 through a 1 k resistor. When mains power is available, the base of transistor T2 remains high and T2 does not conduct. Thus LEDs are off. On the other hand, when mains fails, the base of transistor T2 becomes low and it conducts. This makes all the LEDs (LED1 through LED12) glow. The mains power supply, when available, charges the battery and keeps the LEDs off as transistor T2 remains cut-off. During mains failure, the charging section stops working and the battery supply makes the LEDs glow. Assemble the circuit on a general-purpose PCB and enclose in a cabinet with enough space for battery and switches. Mount the LEDs on the cabinet such that they light up the room. A hole in the cabinet should be drilled to connect 230 V AC input for the primary of the transformer. I have tested the circuit with twelve 10 mm white LEDs.You can use more LEDs provided the total current consumption does not exceed 1.5 A. Driver transistor T2 can deliver up to 1.5 A with proper heat-sink arrangement.
Download this circuit in PDF

Low cost / Automatic Emergency Light